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Routes
Eastbound: Mizen Head to Cork Harbour
What is the route?
This is a coastal description for eastbound vessels planning to sail along the coast between Mizen Head and Cork Harbour. The sequence of description is from west to east coastal-anticlockwise. Those taking the opposite direction, Cork Harbour to Mizen Head, should avail of the westbound description or clockwise sequence for the same coastal area.
Why sail this route?
Many cruisers enjoy inshore coastal sailing and particularly so between close situated locations. This coastal description strives to assist passage planning by highlighting the key coastal locations characteristics and immediate offshore dangers that may be encountered whilst sailing in this area.
What are the navigational notes?
The sixty three miles of coast between Cork Harbour and Mizen Head is one of the countries prime leisure sailing destinations as well as being the normal landfall for vessels approaching Ireland from the Atlantic Ocean.
The section of coast is characterised by rock cliffs interspersed by numerous headlands and peninsulas. The area near Clear Island, the south-western most corner of Ireland, is high and bold with the northerly mainland increasing in height in the backdrop. To the east of Clear Island the shore retains its bold aspect, but is less indented.
The southwest portion of the coast takes the full violence of the North Atlantic’s prevailing westerly gales and is subject to heavy seas and swell. This has created the irregular broken aspect particularly within the area between Mizen Head and Cape Clear Island. Here the coast is indented with a broken bay that abounds in islands, bights and estuaries. It offers a host of safe and beautiful anchorages. The seas become less turbulent as a vessel progresses to the east and likewise the coastline.
The coastline is relatively free of hidden dangers. Fastnet Rock, with a lighthouse, lies about nine miles east-southeast of Mizen Head. It has a Traffic Separation Scheme established to the southeast of the rock. Inshore the well covered but breaking Daunt Rock, off the entrance of Cork Harbour, and the 20 metres high Stag Rocks, off Toe Head, are the principal dangers. There are a few additional off-lying dangers off the salient points.
Tides are weak in this area with spring rates seldom exceeding a maximum of 1 to 1.5 knots offshore although they can run stronger off headlands.
Cruisers should pay particular attention to the areas excellent weather forecasting and not risk a gale at sea; over what would most likely be a lee shore. On the first appearance of a change, seek shelter in one of the host of harbours the coast has to offer. Marine farming in and around this coastal area is rapidly growing. Large steel-jointed fish cages with tubular rubber sides, are marked on the charts but may be placed anywhere, and the structures are hardly visible. Each cage is required to be marked by two yellow flashing lights and a radar reflector.
This part of the coast is the natural landfall for vessels approaching Ireland from the Atlantic Ocean. The most prominent objects to first present themselves to these ocean approaching vessels are the 682 Metres high Hungry Hill, the 404 metres Mount Gabriel, discernable by a conspicuous radar domes near the summit, the 250 metres high Dursey Island, and the 214 metre high Great Skellig Island. Closer in the 229 metre high Mizen Peak will appear in view, and finally the 159 metre high Cape Clear, and Fastnet Rock.
Offshore, about nine miles east-southeast of Mizen Head, Fastnet Rock is a compact 23 metre high schist rock that covers an area of 110 metres by 55 at low water. A granite circular tower lighthouse, 28 metres high, painted white plus a helicopter platform stands upon its southwestern side. Alongside it is the base of an old lighthouse that was erected in 1854 to replace the Cape Clear lighthouse.
Fastnet - lighthouse Fl 5's 49m 27M position: 51° 23.358'N, 009° 36.178'W
The bottom to the west, south, and northeast of the Fastnet is shoal and rocky. A quarter of a mile to the northeast of Fastnet there is a flat rock, with only 3.4 metres of water over it, that often breaks. The space between the Fastnet and the shore is completely free from danger. Nevertheless in boisterous weather the sea can violently break here and there as a result of the rough elevations of the ground. When operating in rough conditions in the vicinity of the Fastnet it is best to keep a mile off the rock.
Caution: A Traffic Separation Scheme has been established five miles southeast of Fastnet Rock, with an inshore traffic zone between the west bound lane and Fastnet Rock. This is well marked on Admiralty Charts and leisure craft may avoid this by take a route closer inshore that leads east from Mizen Head and pass either north or south of Fastnet Rock.
In the vicinity Mizen Head and Cape Clear the coast is high, precipitous, and bold, increasing in height to the north of the Cape Clear, where it is fringed by outlying islets and rocks of considerable elevation. These are easily recognized out to a great distance in clear weather.
The very steep-to Mizen Head is clear of danger beyond a distance of 200 metres out from the rocks. The head is the southwest extremity of Cruckaun Island that is connected to the coast by a narrow neck of land. The headland is made conspicuous by its remarkable 229 metre high Mizen Peak located about a mile to the northeast. This sharp peak is the highest hill in the vicinity and about half way between Mizen Head and the peak a ruined tower can be seen at an elevation of 128 metres. 12 miles to the northeast of this is the 404 metre Mount Gabriel that will make itself known by conspicuous radar domes near the summit. Mizen Head has a light shown from a light structure on a concrete platform with the lantern visible 313°-133°.
Mizen Head – lighthouse Iso.W 4s 44m 15M position: 51° 26.995´N, 009° 49.225´W
Note: Near the head the tide runs at the rate of 4 kn, causing a dangerous race. At a distance from the shore it loses its velocity, and at 5 miles from the head runs only l.5 knots.
Half a mile southeast of the light structure, and 250 metres offshore, there is the dangerous Carrigower Rock that is awash at high water.
A mile to the east of Mizen Head is Barley Cove. It is made conspicuous by tracts of sand at its head plus the ruins of a signal tower on Brow Head, its eastern entrance point. Although on the face of it the cove is inviting but it offers no safety in any wind. At about the middle of the cove there is a large rock that dries about 2.7 metres and is awash at high water, called the Devil’s Rock.
The 111 metres high and bluff Brow Head slopes down to Galley Cove on its eastern side. The small bight is only separated from Crookhaven Harbour by a narrow sandy isthmus.
Five miles to the east of Mizen Head, and six miles north-by-west from the Fastnet, is Crookhaven. Entered between Streek Head and Sheemon Point, the eastern extremity of Rock Island located half a mile north, this haven is a very convenient and popular anchorage; especially so during easterly winds.
The remarkable Streek Head, rises abruptly from the sea to a height of 44 metres, has some high detached rocks on its southern side. Part of these dry to 6 metres, Gokane Rock, and the area should not be approached within a 200 metres distance.
Extending 400 to 600 metres to the east of Streek Head are the Alderman Rocks. Rising from up to 9.1 metres above high water they are foul out beyond the Black Horse Rocks. These rocks extend about 135 metres north from Alderman Rocks and are marked by the Blackhorse Rocks beacon, but sunken rocks extend more than 90 metre northeast from the beacon.
Blackhorse Rocks - north cardinal beacon Q FL position: 51°28.437'N, 009°41.683'W
The Alderman Sound, a narrow channel with up to 5.8 metres of water, resides between the mainland and Alderman Rocks. It is constricted by the dangers on both sides and the cut should only be used in good conditions with the benefit of local knowledge.
The north point of entrance (mainland side) is Rock Island Point, on which stands the lighthouse immediately outside the harbour entrance. The shore here is bold to and clear of danger. Crookhaven Lighthouse is clearly identifiable 14 metre round cylindrical masonry tower painted white and surrounded by a white wall. Its light shows red or white depending on direction; white over Long Island Bay; W131°-281° (150°), R281°-340° (59°), R281°-348° (67°), W348°-111° (123°).
Crookhaven - lighthouse Fl WR 8s 20m 13/11M position: 51° 28.593’N, 009° 42.273’W
Between Crookhaven and Long Island Sound the coast is deeply indented, and skirted by outlying dangers. Spanish Point, about 800 metres north of Sheemon Point, is fringed by foul ground that can extend as far as 135 metres in places offshore.
To the east of Crookhaven is Ballydivlin Bay that is entered between Sheemon Point and Ballyrisode Point, about 2 miles northeast. Ballydivlin Bay is exposed to south and southeast winds, but in offshore winds offers a sheltered anchorage. The northeast corner of the bay should be avoided as it has many dangers.
Off Ballyrisode Point, two miles to the east of Crookhaven, foul ground extends to the south for nearly half a mile. Amsterdam Reef is awash at low water and on the outer end of this foul ground, at the distance of 800 metres southwest by south from the point.
Immediately to the east of Ballydivlin Bay is Toormore Bay. The bay is entered between Ballyrisode Point and Castle Point, about 1.2 miles east-southeast. It provides a good anchorage with offshore winds with excellent holding in a mixture of sand and stiff clay.
Approximately three miles east of Crookhaven is Castle Point. This is made conspicuous by the ruins of an old square castle standing on a hill, 12 metres high and 300 metres east of Castle Point. Also the round topped Tower Hill, rises to 107 metres high, about a mile and a half northeast of Castle Point, where the prominent ruins of Leamcon Tower stands.
The 5.2 metre high islet of Duharrig lies 0.4 mile southwest of Castle Point. A narrow channel called Barrel Sound, with depths of 9.1 to 24 metres with a shallower mid-channel section carrying 4.6 metres over a rock, leads between Castle Point and Duharrig. This leads into Lough Buidhe between Goat Island and the mainland on the north side that has a least depth of 12.2 metres in the fairway. This in turn leads into the Long Island Channel.
Note: It is advisable to only use this channel in very settled conditions or with the benefit of local knowledge aboard.
There are dangerous clusters of rocks and rocky islets at from 400 to 600 metres distance south from the Castle Point. The most dangerous part of this foul ground, called Bulligmore, has two rocky heads, with 0.9 and 3.6 metres of water respectively. The latter depth is southwest by south, three quarters of a mile from Castle Point, and a similar distance west by north from Illaunricmonia Island.
Bulligmore – unmarked 0.9 metre rock pinnacle position: 51°28.845'N, 009°38.385'W
Note: A clearing line to pass to the south of Bulligmore is marked on the Admiralty charts; keep Streek Head well open of the southern point of Goat Island Little (257°T).
Goat Island, to the east of Illaunricmonia Island, has rocky shores and rises to the height of 32 metres, and has a channel into Long Island Sound on each side of it. The island is made remarkable by a deep chasm, which almost severs its southern portion, called Little Goat Island. On a hill near the southern extremity of Little Goat Island a 4.9 metre high stone beacon will be seen. This helps distinguish the island and entrances to Long Island Sound that opens up Long Island Bay.
From Goat Island to Cape Clear and Sherkin Islands, about 5.2 miles to the southeast, is Long Island Bay. This area, that includes Roaringwater Bay tucked into the sheltered northeast corner, is strewn with numerous islets, rocks and shoals. A feature of practically all the islands in this area are waisting. The islands here erode or are being cut across in waists, or are already cut two and sometimes three, by the sea owing to their sandstone geology. These waists provide a host of sheltered anchorages that can be readily called upon by leisure vessels. The principal destinations in the area are Long Island Sound, Castle Island Sound, Roaringwater Bay and Skull Harbour, on the north side of the bay.
Caution. Large scale marine farms are established within the bay. For those approaching Long Island Bay from sea note the rocky bank called Croa-Lea. The bank lies about 3.2 miles south of Little Goat Island and has a least depth of 27 metres. It creates a considerable heave of the sea over it in westerly gales and breaks in heavy gales.
Half a mile east of Goat Island is Duff Point, the southwest extremity Long Island. Two miles long and about 500 yards wide, it rises near the middle to a modest 29 metres from where it declines to the low shelving point at its northeastern end, called Copper Point. A light is shown from a white 14 metre high round tower.
Copper Point - Lighthouse Q(3)10s 16m 8M position 51° 30.250’N 009° 32.063’W
The outer shores of Long Island are generally clear to the distance of 90 metres, except near the eastern end, within 0.8 mile of Copper Point, where the, always visible Carrigeenwaun Rocks extend off 200 metres.
On the north side of the island between Long Island and the mainland, is Long Island Channel. It is about 600 metres in width, with good holding ground plenty of water, and affords good shelter. Several anchorages may be obtained in and around the channel as indicated on Admiralty chart 2129 where it indicates; a place within the east entrance of Long Island Channel, in Esheens Bay west of Coney Island, and finally nearly in mid-channel to the south of Coney Island off Long Island.
There are three channels of approach to Long Island Channel, one between Goat Island and Illaunricmonia Island, called Man-of-War Sound, that joins Lough Buidhe to the north of Goat Island. Another between Goat Island and Long Island, called Goat Island Sound, and a third to the east of Long Island, between it and the Castle Island, called Castle Island Grounds.
Although only 400 metres wide at its northern end, where it is at its narrowest, Goat Island Sound has plenty of water with a least depth of 20.7 metres. Foul ground extends over 400 metres south of the eastern extremity of Goat Island. On the opposite side, off the southwest end of Long Island, and at the north end of Goat Island Sound where the sound is at its narrowest, there are some off-lying rocks and islets. These are the Garillaun Islands and close west to these is the straggling Sound Rock that dries to 1.5 metres very much in the way of a vessel cutting in and out of Goat Island Sound and Long Island Channel.
Extending from the west end of Castle Island are the Castle Grounds. The grounds reach out half a mile to Long Island and within this area are the Mweel Ledges. These consist of several rocks that dry, extending out about quarter of a mile from the western extremity of Castle Island to terminating at Mweel Point.
The Grounds also extend about 0.3 mile to the south-southwest, much of which has a least depth of 5.5 metres, to terminating at Amelia Rock that has 2.1 metres of water over it. It is marked by a green buoy moored 300 metres west by south of the rock, in 16 metres of water.
Amelia Rock - G Lt buoy Fl. G. 3s position: 51° 29.979’N 009° 31.461’W
Note: Cosheen Crag and Barnacleeve gap in line 000° (T), leads to the west of Amelia Rock as best seen on Admiralty 2184.
The half a mile wide Long Island Channel is entered from east between Copper Point and Skull Point, or from the west between Gun Point and Garillaun Islands, where it leads between Long Island and mainland up to the 11.9 metres high Coney Island. Between Gun Point and Coney Island there is a shallow inlet running up to Croagh River, with some detached rocks at its entrance.
Long Island Channel is obstructed by a shoal bank that fringes the north side of Long Island. The principal danger is Cush Spit, a gravel bank about half a mile to the west of Copper Point. The spit stretches about 400 metres out from the island, nearly half way across to the mainland, and has 0.6 metres of water on its north edge, that is steep-to and is marked by a north cardinal buoy. To the east and west of the Cush Spit the depths decrease but there is plenty of water for the cruising vessel.
Cush Spit - north cardinal Q 4M position 51° 30.304’N 009° 33.017’W
On the north shore, directly north of Long Island’s easternmost point, and at the foot of Mount Gabriel is famous Schull Harbour. The harbour provides an excellent anchorage for leisure craft in a scenic setting. It is free from danger except for one rock called Bull Rock. Situated about midway between the points of entrance the Bull Rock dries at half-ebb tide and is well marked by a port hand light beacon.
Bull Rock – beacon Fl (2) R 6s position: 51° 30.758’N 009° 32.205’W
The area between Long Island and Cape Clear Island is full of islets, rocks, and shoals, and is only navigable in fair conditions with excellent charts and preferably with the benefit of local knowledge. The outer islet, named Calf Island West, has deep water close home to its western point, is the westernmost of three small rocky islets named the West, Middle, and East Calf. To the north of these there is a nest of rocks that have the 10 metre high Carthy’s Island at their western extreme. Between these rocks and Castle Island there is a clear passage, called Carthy’s Sound, leading into Roaringwater Bay.
To the south of the Calf Islands, between them and Cape Clear, there is another passage leading to the Ilen or Skibbereen river. Those wishing to take this passage for both the River Ilen and Baltimore Harbour will find a useful set of waypoints already shared in the ‘Routes’ entry ‘Baltimore Harbour North Entrance’. Vessels may also pass to the east of the East Calf, or between it and the Middle Calf.
Note: All these channels require highly attentive navigation, settled conditions and good visibility for their safe navigation.
At the northeast extreme of Long Island Bay is Roaringwater Bay that is an extensive shallow inlet. Despite the forbidding name, the bay affords quiet and well-sheltered anchorage. This is by result of being completely sheltered from the sea by the rocks and islands to the west of it.
Immediately southeast of Schull Castle Island Channel is entered between the extremity of mainland’s Coosheen Point and Castle Island’s Mweel Ledges. The sound is about half a mile wide and free of dangers but it does not offer an effective route into Roaringwater Bay. The eastern end, between the northeastern end of Horse Island and the mainland, is obstructed by the Horse Ridge that dries to 0.3 metres. Admiralty 2129 / 2184 recommend an anchorage at about mid-channel to the south of Capple Point, on the north shore, about a mile east north east of Coosheen Point. A good anchorage can also be found in the bight that makes up the southeast side of Castle Island.
Caution: Those entering and exiting Schull and Castle Island Sound should note Joan Salter’s Rocks that lie close southwest of Coosheen Point.
The clearest and most direct channel into Roaringwater Bay is via Carthy’s Sound. This resides between Castle Island and Carthy’s Island. Carthy’s Island lies in the middle of the approach to Roaringwater Bay, about half a mile south of Castle Island; it is the outermost of a group of islets and rocks that extend east northeast. Steering about east from the latter position, and then keeping Ilaunnnabinneeny Island closing on Carthy’s Island cliffs until the west end of Horse Island bears north, clears the well covered Moore’s Rock, with 2.7 metres of water, but more importantly the Rowmore Rocks situated half a mile to the east – the clearing line as best seen on Admiralty Chart 2129 and 2184. The same course will lead to the outer anchorage off the east end of Horse Island.
A vessel may also approach Roaringwater Bay from the south of the Calf Islands, passing to the east of or between them; but these channels are full of dangers, and a stranger should avoid it if possible. Between East Calf Island and Hare Island, about a mile to the northeast, is obstructed in mid-channel by the drying Anima Rock. The foul ground called the Toorane Rocks, extending about 0.8 mile to the southwest from Hare Island, should also be noted. The channel between Carthy’s Island and the Calf Islands also has a shallow area with only 2.1 metres.
The extensive shallow inlet of Roaringwater Bay is finally entered between Horse Island and West Skeam Island, about 0.6 mile to the south southeast of Horse Island. In the inner part of Roaringwater Bay, the 16 metres high Mannin Island, lies close offshore at the head of the bay. The Carrigviglash Rocks, with two continuously dry heads, 2.1 and 1 metre high, reside at the south end of an extensive mudflat, about half a mile south of Mannin Island. An anchorage may be had half a mile east of Horse Island, or with better shelter about half a mile north further northeast, in sand with 4.9 metres, aligning Knocktower Point and Folinnamuck Point, two projections on the mainland, on a bearing of 013° as best seen on Admiralty Chart 2129. Other anchorages are also available in the inner part of the bay, in Ballydehob Bay, Poulgorm Bay or south of Carrigviglash Rocks.
Caution: Extensive fish farms exist throughout Roaringwater Bay.
Long Island Bay’s south eastern side is formed by the northeast sides of Cape Clear and Sherkin Islands.
Three miles long, in an east and west direction, and a mile wide, the imposing Cape Clear Island is high, precipitous, and bold, especially on its southern side, where it rises abruptly from the sea to the height of 159 metres, but slopes more gradually to the north. Two wind motors will be seen on the summit of the island. The ruins of an old lighthouse, that was replaced in 1854 by the Fastnet Rock lighthouse, will be seen about midway along the south side of the Island. Likewise the ruins of Doonanore Castle stand on the northwest side, about 0.8 of a mile north northeast of the Bill of Cape Clear, the southwest extremity. Cape Clear the most southwest point of Cape Clear Island, called Pointabullaun.
Both the west and southern shores of Clear Island are steep and bold to, with 20 to 40 metres of water found 200 metres off. The island is clear all round except its northern side. For about two miles from the Cape, the shore continues clear and steep-to, with the exception of Tonelunga Rock that resides 200 metres offshore near the ruins of Doonanore Castle. To the east of the North (Trawkieran) Harbour, located on the northeastern side of the island, from which a group of islets and rocks extend about half mile offshore, terminating at Bullig Reef. The old telegraph tower east of Baltimore Harbour in range with the white chapel at Sherkin, bearing 082° as best seen on Admiralty 2129, leads to the north of Bullig Reef. Within the extensive and deep cove on the south side of the islands called South (Ineer) Harbour is another anchorage, but it does not afford permanent shelter to a cruising vessel.
A mile to the northeast is the similar but not so high Sherkin Island. It is less high and slopes more gradually to the bay. Historically called Inisherkin the island is three miles long by one and a half miles wide and hosts a population of just over 100. It is separated from Clear Island by a channel called the Gascanane Sound situated at the southwest end of Sherkin Island. The pier in Baltimore Harbour, situated on the east side of the island just below the abbey, is the primary anchorage and embarkation place for the island. An inlet, close south and located on the southeast side of Sherkin Island, called Horseshoe Harbour provides an anchorage but has a very narrow entrance that is further constricted by rocks off the western shore. The very sheltered Kinish Harbour on the northwest side, mostly dries and is bestrewn with rocks - beware of Carrogoona Rocks just east of the entrance.
This challenging Gascanane Sound resides between Lahan Point, the eastern extremity of Cape Clear Island, and Curra Point, the southwest extremity of Sherkin Island. It is about a mile wide and is divided into two channels by the Carrigmore and Gascanane Rocks. The former Carrigmore Rocks are a group of 6.1 metres high rocks that never cover, and reside about 800 metres northeast of Lahan Point. The latter, Gascanane Rock lays nearly 180 metres west of the Carrigmore Group and dries to 1.8 metres but is covered at half flood. The tides sweep through both channels, especially at springs, with such velocity as to cause dangerous eddies and it should only be approached with a commanding breeze, a reliable back up engine plus good visibility and favourable tides.
With all these in hand it is particularly convenient cut for moving to and from Baltimore to Clear Island’s North Harbour as it saves at least an hour’s sailing. It can also be used when transiting from Long Island Bay, to or from for instance Schull, Crookhaven etc where it will save at least half an hour. The better channel, which is deepest, passes east of Carrigmore Rocks and west of Illanubrock Island, lying about 100 metres mile west of Curra Point. This passes west of Crab Rock that lies about 300 metres north of Illanubrock Island. Those wishing to avail of the Gascanane Sound will find a useful set of waypoints
already shared in the ‘Routes’ entry ‘The Gascanane Sound cut between Cape Clear & Sherkin Island’.
Between Sherkin, Spanish Island and Ringarogy Islands and the mainland resides the natural harbour of Baltimore; a fishing port and busy yachting centre. The entrance between Beacon Point to the east, marked by a beacon, and Barrack Point on Sherkin Island, marked by a lighthouse.
Baltimore - beacon unlighted position: 51°28.417'N, 009°23.272'W
Barrack Point - white tower Fl.(2)W.R.6s 40m 6/3M position: 51° 28.375´N, 009° 23.670´W
The entrance is deep but only 80 metres wide, and is not easily made out at any considerable distance. It should also be noted that it is set between a rocky ridge extending from both points. At night is further supported by a sectored light R. 168°-294°, W.-038°, obsc.- 168°.
Inside the channel a Light Buoy marks Loo Rock situated on the eastern side of the entrance. The rock uncovers at low water spring tides and can be seen to the northwest of the beacon, and nearly quarter of the distance across from the eastern to the western points.
Loo – starboard buoy Fl G 3s position: 51° 28.438'N, 009° 23.458'W
To the east of Baltimore Harbour the coast is high, rocky, and barren, and free from hidden dangers. The high flat-topped rocky islet, called Kedge Island resides about two miles east-southeast from the southern entrance to Baltimore Harbour and a third of a mile south of the coast. A chain of pinnacle rocks extend from the islet to the shore, leaving a narrow passage with 7 metres of water close along by Spain Point, that is sometimes used by locals.
Note: A tidal race occurs off the southwest extremity of the island.
The coast between Kedge Island and Toe Head, about 4.5 miles east-northeast, is indented by a number of inlets and small bays. The remarkable Barlogue Creek is situated between precipitous hills, two and a half miles to the east of Kedge Island. It is frequented by a few fishing boats but offers no shelter in southerly winds. A narrow 350 metres long channel connects it with Lough Hyne, a large sheet of water with depths from 18 to 36 metres, with which the external waters level at half-tide only. Outside of this, there is a rapid in the narrow connecting channel.
To the east of Toe Head, between Barlogue and Toe head, there are two deep indentations, called Tragumna and Toehead bays. They afford little or no shelter or anchorage.
The bluff, bold 29 metres high headland of Toe Head, has an old telegraph tower on its northeastern side. Close inland at Beenteeane Hill, the land rises to the height of 108 metres. The coast in its vicinity is high, barren, and rocky. To the west of the head, foul ground extends to nearly 400 metres from the shore with the Belly Rocks straggler marking its extremity.
Situated 0.7 mile south of Toe Head the Stag Rocks forms a cluster of rugged, precipitous rocks, 20 metres high. When viewed from the west they appear like pinnacles. They are moderately steep-to, and free from outlying danger. The sound between them and Toe Head, Stag Sound, is more than half a mile wide with 37 metres of water, and although it can be rough, provides a safe passage. A stranded wreck lies about 0.2 of a mile southwest of The Stags. The Stags are marked by a south cardinal buoy moored 800 metres to the south.
The Stags – south cardinal buoy Q(6)+L Fl.15s position: 51° 27.580'N, 009° 13.735'W
Note: The tidal currents attain a rate of 2 to 2.5 knots at springs through Stag Sound.
On the eastern side of the head is Scullane Bay that is exposed to the southeast, but clear of danger, with gradual soundings to the shore over a clean sandy bottom. Horse Island, with the Black Rock lying off it, forms its eastern limit. The latter is a 21 metre high and bold-to; round it is the entrance to Castle Haven.
Located about three miles to the northeast of the Stag Rocks, eight and a half miles west of Galley Head, is the river inlet of Castle Haven. The entrance resides between Horse Island and Skiddy Island, to the east of it, and is about 800 metres wide and free from danger. A prominent 35 metre high ruined tower stands on the east end of Horse Island and Skiddy Island is a remarkable high flat rock. Reen Point, to the north of Skiddy Island, is skirted by rocky prongs; just within the point, 100 metres from the shore, there is a rocky head called the Colonel Rock. The entrance between Battery Point and Reen Point is free of dangers and has a least depth of 9.1 metres in the fairway, decreasing to 5.5 metres about a third of a mile further in. A light house is situated on Reen Point providing a sectored light G. shore-338°, W.-001°, R.-shore.
Castle Haven, on Reen Point - white tower Fl.W.R.G. 10s 9m 5.3M position: 51° 30.980´N, 009° 10.475´W
The small bay of Blind Harbour opens approximately half a mile east-northeast of the mouth of Castle Haven and two and half nautical miles east of Glandore. It is partially covered to the south east by a ragged cluster of rocks called Low and High Island a distance of a mile off, and open to the south.
Two miles to the east of Castle Haven, and midway between it and Glandore Harbour, is the 46 metre high High Island. It is the largest of a cluster of rocks and islets and is steep-to to the south and east, but the group must not be approached too closely from any other side. In very settled conditions a temporary anchorage can be taken, in the southern side of Big Sound, between High Island and the mainland to the north of the group, as marked on Admiralty 2092.
Situated between High Island and Galley Head, just over six miles to the east, is Glandore Bay, that embraces Glandore Harbour and several small fishing creeks. It is generally foul and rocky near the shore. The western side of the bay consists of steep barren cliffs rising to hills inland whilst the eastern side is made up of two sandy beaches separated by the rugged cliffs of Cloghna Head.
Rabbit Island, three quarters of a mile north-northeast from High Island, forms the east shore of the small harbour of Squince, where small fishing vessels find good shelter in westerly winds. There is also a little inlet between Castle Haven and Squince, called Blind Harbour, fit for small boats only.
Awash at low water springs, the 0.4 metre Belly Rock, lies 300 metres to the south of the rocks that extend from the west end of Rabbit Island. This places it very much in the track of vessels taking the Big Sound channel between High Island and the shore, which otherwise presents a clear passage.
The entrance to Glandore Harbour is located two miles to the northeast of High Island, and it is entered between Sheela Point and Goat’s Head, about a mile to the northeast. Goat’s Head, on the east shore, may be easily distinguished by an old telegraph tower, standing on the cliffs of the headland, at a height of 79 metres. Sheela’s Rock, that dries to 1.5 metres, lies close southeast of Sheela Point.
The 27 metres high Adam Island lies on the west side of the entrance about 500 metres east of Sheela Point. Between Sheela Point and the island, a distance of about 400 metres, there is a well covered mid-channel rock that reduces the draft to 3 metres. To the north of the island foul ground extends for up to 200 metres and should be given a wide berth. The east side is clear of danger, and about 800 metres wide, with around 25 metres of water and as such the preferred passage. The 7 metre high Eve Island, lies about 0.7 of a mile north of Sheela Point and should be passed on its east side as sunken rocks lie some distance off the west shore of the Harbour abreast Eve Island.
About one mile east of Goat’s Head is Tralong Bay that is a small cove with a beach that dries out half way along the inlet. The shore is foul on the entrance’s western side out to the 14 metre high Tralong Rock with rocks extending 100 metres to the southeast of that. The outer end of the bay provides good shelter in offshore winds. The shore between Tralong and Goat's Head is foul out to a distance of 200 metres all the way.
Less than a mile east of Tralong Bay, and just over a mile west-southwest of the Ross Carbery inlet, is the narrow Mill Cove. The conspicuous Black Rocks form a single drying cluster on the western side of the inlet and extend nearly 400 metres offshore. In offshore winds the bay offers an anchorage to small yacht southwest of a pier within the inlet.
Rosscarbery Bay, at the east end of Glandore Bay, is generally foul and dangerous to approach. The Ross Carbery inlet is all dry at low water as far out as Downeen Point, and not worth considering unless a vessel can dry out on the hard. At high water the entrance is about 100 metres wide, beyond which it expands and runs up about a mile to the small coastal town of Ross Carbery.
To the south of this inlet there are two sandy beaches, separated by the rugged cliffs of 56 metre high Cloghna Head. The southernmost of these, the Long strand, forms a remarkable feature of the coast; from its eastern end there commences a bold rocky shore which reaches to Galley Head.
Half a mile out from the shore, directly south of Cloghna Head and about 1.5 mile northwest of Galley Head, is Cloghna Rock. Steep-to all round, a rock pinnacle with 0.9 metres of cover, the rock is the most outlying danger in Rosscarbery Bay. Keeping the spire of Ross Carbery Cathedral, just open of Creggan Point, upon the eastern limit of Rosscarbery Harbour, leads 350 metres to the west of Cloghna Rock – as best seen on Admiralty Chart 2092 ‘Toe Head to Old Head of Kinsale’.
Half a mile west of Galley Head, and awash at high water, is Doolic Rock. The rock is steep-to on the north and east, but foul ground extends for 300 metres to the southwest of it. With good weather, leisure craft can use the channel between Doolic Rock and Galley Head. The transit provided to clear the Cloghna Rock, via the spire of Ross Carbery Cathedral just open of Creggan, point leads between the Doolic Rock and Galley Head in from 16 to 20 metres of water.
Caution. Wind-against-tide situations develop heavy seas close to the head. Strong currents are experience experienced off Galley Head and Doolic Rock with the ebb tide setting on to the rock with great velocity. In these circumstances it is advised to stay offshore.
Viewed from the east or west the 37 metres high Galley Head, appears like an island. The ruin of Dundeady Castle can be seen on the low neck that connects it with the mainland. A prominent lighthouse, 21 metre high white tower, stands on the extremity of the headland.
Galley Head – lighthouse Fl (5) 20s 53m 23M position: 51°31.798'N, 008°57.210'W
To the southwest of the head there are the Clout Rocks with plenty of cover for leisure vessels. 800 metres to the southwest well covered Clout Rock has 9.6 metres of water and half way between that and the headland there is another shoal called the Inner Clout, with 5.5 metres of water; around these rocks there are from 11 to 20 metres of water.
Immediately to the east of Galley Head, on the west side of the entrance of Clonakilty Bay, is Dirk Bay. The bay affords good anchorage in fine sand with westerly winds, abreast of a house that was formally an old coastguard station on the west side of the bay. On the eastern side of the bay is the Carrigduff Rock, that is covered at half-tide, with foul ground 200 metres to the west of it. The Bream Rock, another small patch off the eastern side of the bay and marked on the Admiralty Chart, has not less than 6.9 metres over it at low water.
Between Galley Head and the Seven Heads, a distance of nine and a half miles in an east by south direction, is Clonakilty Bay. With the exception of half a mile of sandy beach with a conspicuous hotel, that marks the entrance to Clonakilty Harbour, the shores of Clonakilty Bay are generally high, rocky, and fringed with outlying rocks and foul ground.
Note: The bay has irregular depths in its outer part that almost break in southerly gales and in thick weather it is best to stay well outside of it.
On the west side of Clonakilty Bay, is Dunnycove Bay that offers depths from 6 to 8 metres of fine sand and is clean and level. It provides a good anchorage, with westerly winds but is open to the southwest. A conspicuous water tower stands 700 metres west of the shore of the bay at an elevation of 107 metres.
Seven hundred metres northeast from Duneen Head is Anchor Rock, with 2.3 metres of water, in the track of vessels east and west bound to and from Clonakilty Harbour.
Half a mile to the east of Clonakilty Harbour is Sheep Rock, with 0.9 metres of water, is 400 metres offshore.
Between Clonakilty Harbour and Dunworley Bay the shore becomes very foul. The well covered Sloop Rock, with 3.2 metres, is about 600 metres off, but drying rocks exist between it and the shore.
Dunworley Bay, a small bight full of rocks and foul ground, has the Cow Rock, that dries to 2.6 metres, about half a mile from the shore. Directly north of this there is Horse Rock approximately half way between it and the shore.
Bold and bluff the 40 metre high Seven Heads is also made conspicuous by an old watch tower upon it. The bottom around the head is uneven and rocky, causing overfalls during the full run of the tide.
Between Seven Heads and the Old Head of Kinsale, a distance of seven miles in an east by south direction, is Courtmacsherry Bay. The bay is traditionally passed over by cruisers observing its exposed aspect plus the dangerous rocks and shoals that impede it. Yet its western shore provides good shelter in westerly winds; and in its northwest corner has the excellent Courtmacsherry Harbour.
The Baun Bank, with 11 metres of water, half a mile to the east of Seven Heads, and Carrigroar Rock with 8.7 metres, 1.5 miles from the shore in the same direction, break heavily in bad weather. Cotton Rock, awash at high water, is 300 metres from the shore on the east side of the head.
Seven Heads Bay, 11 miles to the north of the head, affords shelter from westerly and northerly winds, in from 6 to 7 metres of water with good holding ground. Its north shore rises almost perpendicularly to the height of 102 metres, from which it sinks rather abruptly to Barry Point.
Broadstrand Bay, half a mile to the north of Barry Point, affords good shelter from westerly and south-westerly winds, in with fine sand with 3 metres.
Set in the estuary of a river that enters the bay, about 4.5 miles north northeast of
Seven Heads, is Courtmacsherry Harbour. The harbour is shallow restricted by a sand bar and the sand banks on each side of the channel are constantly shifting. The depths over the bar are less than 2.3 metres and it breaks in strong south and south-easterly winds.
If entering the harbour approach from the southeast, the 313°(T) alignment of the summit of the 49 metre high Burren Hill and Coosnalacka (located close south of Wood Point) leads to the harbour entrance – as best seen on Admiralty Chart 2092. On closer approach pass 300 metres east of Wood Point, the west entrance point, and south of Courtmacsherry Lighted Buoy. A directional light is shown from a white column standing on Wood Point, Red shore to 315°, White 315°- 332°, Red 332° to the shore, plus there is a starboard buoy moored off the spit extending from the north shore.
Wood Point - Fl (2) WR 58, 15m, 6M - position: 51° 38.000’N, 008° 41.000’W
Courtmacsherry – starboard buoy Fl G 3s position: 51° 38.287’N, 008° 40.897’W
This described alignment, or white sector at night, passes through the most outlying dangers in Courtmacsherry Bay which are the Horse, Black Tom, Barrel, and Blueboy rocks.
Awash at high water Horse Rock resides 600 metres to the east of Barry Point, with a deep and clear passage of 11 to 15 metres of water between them.
Horse Rock (& Foal Rock) – unmarked position: 51° 36.630’N, 008° 40.000’W
Near the middle of the bay, the Barrel Rocks consist of two patches. The outer rock, 1.2 miles out from the north shore, covers on last quarter flood, when its position has in the past been marked by south cardinal perch. Its south side is steep-to, but it is foul for some distance to the northeast of the perch.
Barrel Rock – south cardinal beacon position: 51° 37.006’N, 008° 37.298’W
Caution. Although noted on Admiralty charts this marker has been planned for dis-establishment by the Commissioner of Irish Lights.
Between this rock and the north shore there is another large patch of foul ground that rarely uncovers called the Inner Barrels. There is a passage between these rocks, and the well covered straggling Breen Rock, with 4.5 metres of cover over it, and the foul ground skirting the north shore.
The final key rocks of the Courtmacsherry Bay are the pinnacle rocks of Blueboy and Black Tom. Blueboy has 0.2 metres of water over it and is just under half a mile east from the Barrel Rock.
With 2.3 metres of water Black Tom is situated half a mile west southwest of the Barrel Rock. Black Tom is marked by a port maker located half a mile south by east of the cover rock.
Black Tom – starboard buoy Fl G 5s position: 51° 36.408'N, 008°37.959'W
The east shore of Courtmacsherry Bay is fringed with rocky ledges, extending up 400 metres from the shore. In its eastern bend is a long sandy beach with foul ground in front of it. Vessels should stay well out of it as it cannot be recommended as an anchorage and sailing vessels can become embayed here with southerly winds. From this to the Old Head the shore is bolder, and free from outlying danger.
The bold projecting Old Head Of Kinsale headland is bounded by steep cliffs with a lighthouse. The head’s outer portion rises to a height of 76 metres and is almost isolated except for a narrow isthmus, about 120 metres across, that connects it to the mainland. The isthmus was penetrated by a subterranean passages that a tender could pass through and hence the titles Hole Open bays either side. This passage, after many centuries, sadly collapsed in 2008. The ruin of De Courcy Castle stands over the isthmus, and a short distance to the north of it there is an old telegraph tower. On the extreme southern point of the head is a lighthouse. The 30 metres high tower is painted black with two white belts and is visible in clear weather for up to 20 miles. There is a disused light structure standing about half a mile north of the light on the eastern side of the headland
Old Head of Kinsale – lighthouse Fl (2) 10s 72m 20M position: 51°36.287'N, 008°32.018'W
On the east side of the head, half a mile north of the lighthouse, there is a low-lying flat rock called the Bream. It extends out 200 metres from the shore and is steep-to. Apart from that the head is quite clear of danger.
Note: On the ebb tide there is a race or overfalls setting from it in a south-westerly direction, for nearly a mile, and on the flood to the south-east for about same distance.
The entrance of Kinsale Harbour is about four and a half miles to the north of the Old Head of Kinsale. The coast between is of moderate elevation and free from danger. Temporary anchorages can be had during west winds about three quarters of a mile to the north in Hole Open Bay East or just over two miles north in Bullen’s Bay.
Situated 1.5 miles within the mouth of the Bandon River, about 11 miles southwest of Cork Harbour’s entrance, is the key leisure sailing destination of Kinsale Harbour. On rounding the head, the harbour entrance comes immediately into view, being easily distinguished by the well its defined river valley. Ardbrack Church, on the east side of the Harbour about a mile within the entrance, stands out conspicuously white. Likewise Charles Fort will be seen, standing half a mile south of the church. At night Charles Fort light leads to the entrance with sectored light coverage: W 358°-004° (6°T). R 004°-168° (164°T). G 348°-358° (10°T).
Charles Fort - Fl WRG 5s position: 51°41.752'N, 008°29.984'W
Entered between Shronecan Point and Preghane Point, about 0.6 mile east-southeast, the harbour is set into the River Bandon estuary. The channel in the vicinity of Blockhouse Point, about 1.2 miles north of Shronecan Point, is marked by lighted buoys. The busy commercial and fishing port provides a secure anchorage to leisure vessels against all winds and seas; albeit subject to a bit of a chop in strong south-easterlies. Sandy Cove located 500 metres east of Shronecan Point, offers an anchorage immediately outside the entrance on the western shoreline.
The key Kinsale danger is the Bulman Rock, with 0.9 metres of water, that resides 400 metres south from Preghane Point, the eastern point of the entrance. It is bold to, always breaks in bad weather, is marked by a south cardinal buoy and the previous discussed marks for clearing it are well defined.
Bulman - south cardinal buoy Q (6) + LFl 15s position: 51°40.136'N, 008°29.739'W
There is a clear inshore passage for vessels approaching from the east between the Bulman Rock and Preghane Point. The leading mark for which are the north end of Big Sovereign Island, closing with Frower Point – the clearing line as best seen on Admiralty Chart 2053.
Two remarkable rocky islets called The Sovereigns reside in front of Oyster Haven. The westernmost called Big Sovereign, 22 metres high, at half a mile to the south of the haven, is precipitous, inaccessible, and bold to. A cleft, through which a boat may pass, divides it into nearly equal portions. Little Sovereign is about 300 metres from the east point of the haven. Between Little Sovereign and the mainland is a rock with 2.1 metres of water. The islets are otherwise clear of danger, and may be passed at 100 metres off.
Two miles to the east of Kinsale, and just within the Sovereign Islands, is the very pleasant and sheltered inlet of Oyster Haven. It is entered between Ballymacus Point and an unnamed point situated about 0.7 mile east-northeast of Little Sovereign. To the northwest of this eastern entry point is Kimure Point on the east shore of Oyster Haven, about 0.6 mile norteast of Ballymacus Point. The only danger in the haven is Harbour Rock, with a depth of 0.9 metres, situated about half a mile within the entrance and midway between Ferry Point and the east shore. The best channel to avoid this danger is the western side of the haven.
Between Oyster Haven and Cork Harbour, a distance of nine miles, the coast is high, bold, and rocky, with the only danger being the well covered Daunt Rock. After rounding the Old Head of Kinsale the most projecting part of the land is Reanies Point. Bold and precipitous, it rises perpendicularly to the height of about 43 metres, and is conspicuous when approaching from the east for a number of gateposts and pillars on it.
Two-thirds of a mile to the west of Reanies Point, Flat Head is foul to the distance of three-quarters of a mile out from the shore.
Eleven miles east-northeast from the Old Head of Kinsale, and 4 miles to the west of the entrance to Cork Harbour, is the bluff Roberts Head that is made conspicuous by an old telegraph tower about half a mile to the north of it. In Carrigadda Bay, at the west side of the head, there is a reef called Long Rock, that uncovers out to the distance of 600 metres from the shore. An anchorage can be had in Robert’s Cove inlet half a mile to the north.
The pinnacle of Daunt Rock, with 3.5 metres of water over it, rises from a rocky bed of about 200 metres in diameter. Residing three quarters of a mile to the southwest of Roberts Head the area frequently breaks in bad weather. Its position is marked by a port marker, moored to the east of the rock.
Daunt – port buoy Fl (2) R 6s 4M position: 51°43.531'N, 008°17.665'W
By night the red light sector of Roche Point lighthouse, on the east side of the entrance to Cork Harbour, covers Daunt Rock. Roche’s Point light sectors are as follows: (Red. Vis.) Red shore-292°. White 292°-016° (84°). Red 016°-033° (17°).White (unintensified) 033°-159° (126°). Red 159°- shore.
Roche’s Point - Fl WR 3s position: 51° 47.586'N, 008° 15.287'W
There is a clear passage between Daunts Rock and Robert’s Head, with 12 and 16 metres of water that cruisers may take advantage in moderate weather. Approaching from the south the alignment 008°(T) of Templebreedy Church, located four miles north-northeast, and Morris Head one and a half miles north-northeast. From the north the alignment 241°(T) of Little Sovereign, five and a half miles west southwest and Reanies Point, one and a half miles southwest – as best seen on Admiralty 1765.
Caution: In unsettled weather this cut must not be attempted, as the sea sometimes breaks right across from the rock to the headland.
Residing between Cork Head on the west side and Power Head to the East, Cork Harbour is moulded into the lower reaches of the River Lee. Reportedly the second largest natural harbour in the world and Ireland's second largest port, it is one of the most secure and easily accessed harbours in Ireland. Having the separate ports of Cork, Cobh, Whitegate and Ringaskiddy, within its confines, it is the principal south coast commercial harbour and a key centre for leisure craft sailing. The harbour offers a host of berthing opportunities with shelter from all winds and seas. Ireland’s second largest city, Cork, is situated on both sides of the river about fifteen miles above the entrance.
The principal features that first present themselves to a vessel approaching Cork Harbour from sea are the high bluffs of Dogsnose on the east side of the entrance, and Ram’s Head, about 0.6 mile north of Weaver’s Point, on the entrance’s western side. On the summit of the Dogsnose, where Fort Carlisle, renamed Fort Davis, will be seen with a notable double wall immediately east, running down the face of the hill to the sea. Fort Camden, renamed Fort Meagher, faces Fort Davis will be also seen at opposite sides of the harbour entrance on the summit of Ram’s Head. One mile south southwest of Fort Meagher the ruined Templebreedy Abbey, with a spire, stands on high land and a notable water tower, with a radio mast, will be seen close north of the Abbey.
Upon a closer approach, Roche’s Point Light, the disused signal towers and Roche’s Tower, about 410 metre to the east, comes into view. The entrance to the harbour lies 0.8 of a mile south of the forts, between Roche’s Point and Weaver’s Point. The surrounding land on each side of the entrance is relatively low. A light is shown from Roche’s Point. Upon rounding Roche’s Point the entrance to the harbour opens, and the entrance channel is well marked by lighted buoys.
Vessels continuing east may avail of the ‘Eastbound: Cork to Rosslare Harbour’ coastal description available in ‘Routes’
Waypoint 1: Clear Water Mizen Head, 51° 26.470' N, 009° 50.195' W
Three quarters of a mile southwest of Mizen Head. The headland is made conspicuous lighthouse on a concrete platform Iso.W 4s 44m 15M with the lantern visible 313°-133°.
Waypoint 2: Cork Sea Buoy, 51° 42.935' N, 008° 15.601' W
The Cork Sea Buoy has LFl 10s and is situated 5 miles south of the Cork Harbour entrance.
What is the best sailing time?
May to September is the traditional Irish Sailing season with June July offering the best weather. June and July’s statistical incidence of strong winds are however two days of winds up to force seven. As such, depending on personal sailing preferences, a vessel may expect to be held-up or enjoy robust sailing conditions. Ireland is not subject to persistent fog. Statistically complete days of persistent fog occur less than once in a decade.
What weather information is available?
Current local weather conditions may be appraised by clicking on the underlined and active locations listed along the route. For more information Met Éireann (the Irish National Meteorological Service) on line services provide an Eastern Atlantic 24 hour synoptic, the current Irish Sea Area Forecast and Irish observations.
The UK Met Office Shipping forecast. They also offer visible satellite and infrared satellite imagery to enable close observation of approaching frontal systems. This clear movement information makes it easy to predict when an area is going to get wet. Moreover it enables a viewer to estimate very accurately when the sharp veer off the back of a cold front will arrive and as such avoided. 21st Operational Weather Squadron provide Atlantic and European synoptics.
XCweather provides a local view of wind conditions direct from and array of reporting station manned along the British Isles. Three hour historical info plus expected wind direction and strength for the next couple of days are available on this site and it is possible to interpolate between stations.
Wind guru is an international surfing site that looks at eighty five beaches around the coast of Ireland. It provides wind and wave information plus meteorological data such as temperature, wind speed and direction. The sites wind, wave height and direction information enables a good picture of a seaway, wave against wind or tide, backwash off a coast etc., to be developed in advance.
Whilst off-line national weather information is broadcast as follows:
Coastal radio stations (VHF Channel)
Weather forecast at 0103 and thence every 3 hours updated every sixth.
Cork 26, Bantry 23, Valentia 24, Shannon 28, Clifden 26, Malin Head 23, Dublin 83, Wicklow Head 87, Rosslare 23, and Mine Head 83.
RTE Radio 1
Sea area forecast: 24 / 48 hour outlook and gale warnings rounding the country in a clockwise direction from headlands to headland.
FM 88.90 MHZ
MW 567khz/529m and 729khz/412m.
Weekdays 0602, 1253, 1823, 2355
Sundays 0633, 0755, 0855, 1253, 1823, 235
BBC Radio 4
LW 198khz/1525M. VHF
92.4/94.6MhZ
Daily 0048, 0535 (0542 on Sundays, 0556 Saturdays), 1201,1754.
Are there any security concerns?
Never been a security issue known to have occurred sailing off the Irish coast.
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