Sailing inyourfootsteps.com

6°C

Swell today

Direction NW, height 3.0 metres, period 9.9 seconds, significant wave height of 3.1 metres.

Haven position?

55° 14.410' N, 006° 55.817' W

Where is that position?

This is the anchorage location off the beach.

What is the initial fix?

It is quarter of a mile north of Inishowen Head and is 800 metres out from the standing stone on the shore. The position sets up an approach between two off-lying rocky outcrops off the strand. Aligned on the grey standing stone, marked on Admiralty chart No. 2511, a bearing of 257°(T) for a distance of 500 metres from the initial fix will lead into the anchoring area through the rocky outcrops.

What is the story here?

Portkill is a beautiful secluded anchorage situated upon the Inishowen Peninsula on Ireland’s northeast coast. It is located a third of a mile northwest of Inishowen Head. It offers boat landings on the beach in offshore winds and no shore facilities.

Portkill is an exposed anchorage that is protected from west to south. The bay requires attentive navigation for access and is available at all states of the tide.

Why visit here?

Portkill derives its name from the Irish ‘Port-cille’, a shortened form of Port 'Colmcille or 'Colmcille's port'. The name ‘Colmcille’ is itself derived from old Irish ‘Colum Cille’ meaning "dove of the church". It is a small, secluded and beautiful beach beneath a steep cliff and mountain pasture.

There are no facilities here save for an access road that may be reached via a scrambling climb up a high steep bank. Those who take on the climb will find a magnificent view above Portkill where a stone picnic bench and seat can be availed of to fully take in surroundings, including a spectacular view of Inishowen Lighthouse. Alongside the road, and overlooking the beach, a bronze plaque will also be discovered that points to the origins of the name plus an interesting and unique history.

It reads as follows. ‘At Portkill below are the remains of an early ecclesiastical site dedicated to Colmcille, containing a holy well called Colmcille's Well and a cross-inscribed pillar stone dating possible from the eighth century. An annual pilgrimage or turas is made here on the 15th August. According to local tradition, Colmcille, while sailing into exile in Scotland, longed to see Derry, he returned to the shore, where he blessed the well and cut out the cross on the stone with his finger. He entered his boat never to set foot in Ireland again.’

Saint Colm Cille, 7th December 521 - 9th June 597 AD, also known as Columba or Calum Cille (Scottish Gaelic), was a Gaelic Irish missionary monk who, legend has it, during the Early Medieval Period, introduced Christianity to the Scottish. He was one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland and on his father's side he was great-great-grandson of Niall of the Nine Hostages, a key 5th century Irish high king. It is said that in 563 A.D. after departing Derry in a ‘curragh’ for the Scottish island of Iona, he and his fellow boatmen called here to take in water from the beaches spring. After coming ashore he climbed the bank and the top of the hill above to take one last look at his beloved homeland.

Today visiting boatmen can directly connect to this history and patronage. Immediately up from the beach on a flat grassy patch the aforementioned eight century standing stone may be found. Made of hard grey sedimentary stone it has a rough cross inscribed on its western face - five small deep hollows mark the crossing and the ends of the cross. Nearby a wooden cross will also be seen.

The holy well that is dedicated to St. Columcille is located a few metres inshore of the standing stone. The well, or more appropriately spring, is very small measuring only 25 x 32 cm wide and is less than 10 cm deep with loose gravel and shell at the bottom. With no structure it is often hidden or overgrown with vegetation. However a small concrete cross has been erected above it bearing the date 1937. Close to the well, there are bushes where people tie a ribbon or a rag during the local communities’ annual pilgrimage made on the 15th August to early September. These tokens are healing wishes for a sore, rubbed on the rag, or bruises, warts, and an infinite variety of ailments and intentions. Likewise there were always a lot of coins in the area.

It should be noted that while it is possible to ascend the 400ft hill from the beach, this can in no way be classed as a safe climb.

How to get in?

Western Approach. A western approach from Malin Head to Portkill will find a rugged Atlantic coastline. Malin Head, the northern most point of Ireland, is a low 70 metre high rounded hill with a square derelict concrete tower on top. The shoreline here is bold, jagged and fringed by outlying rocks that are steep-to and always visible. With the exception of Scars Rocks, lying about 400 metres west of the headland and always visible, there are no off-lying obstructions. A berth of 300 metres or more clears all dangers here but it gets more challenging once Malin Head is rounded.

Careful advance planning is required as this corner of Ireland has to be treated with the utmost respect. Here the Atlantic Ocean collides with the runs of the Irish coastal tide amidst two rocky island groups, the Garvan Isles and Inishtrahull.

The Garvan Isles that reside to the east of Malin Head. They are a collection of barren islands ranging from 15 to 22 metres in height that are surrounded by sunken rocks and shoals. Inishtrahull is a sizable uninhabited island situated three miles northwest of the outermost Garvan Isle. It is nearly a mile long and is made up of two rounded hills joined by a stretch of low ground with a lighthouse at its western end.

Inishtrahull Lighthouse - Fl(3)15s 59m19M position: 55° 55 25.864’N, 007° 14.628’W

The south side of the Inishtrahull is steep-to and clear of danger. However a dangerous 22 metre high arc of rock called the Tor Rock resides nearly a mile off Inishtrahull’s north side that requires attention. It should be noted that Inishtrahull has a separately covered anchorage Portmore situated upon its northern side.

There are three lines of attack available to round Malin Head; the first is to go through Inishtrahull Sound, the second go through Garvan Sound, the third, go way offshore and round Inishtrahull and the Torr Rocks.

If there is any sea running, bad weather, an adverse tide, or you are in doubt in any way, it is advisable to take the third option that is the safest route. Head out to sea and take the offshore route around the outside of Inishtrahull. Those taking the offshore route should give Inishtrahull, and more importantly the off lying Torr Rocks, a wide berth of at least three miles.

However if conditions are good with daylight and the inclination is towards more interesting sailing, the routes through either of the ‘Sounds’ are much shorter options. The first is the offshore Inishtrahull Sound route between the Garvan Isles and Inishtrahull and the latter is the Garvan Sound route between the Garvan Isles and the mainland. It should be noted there is only a mile to be saved by taking the slightly more complex inshore Garvin Sound route. The best advice to address either of these routes is to carefully study Garvan Isles and Sound charts well before the approach and factor in the tide to the timing. Here are some useful notes to observe.

For the three mile wide Inishtrahull Sound route the key rocks to note are Doherty rock that resides a quarter of a mile to the northwest. They uncover at three-quarters ebb when they are clearly visible by the breakers. Also Duvglas, the northernmost islet, that has an elevation of 17 metres. Once the Garvan Isles are abeam to starboard make way towards Glengad Head.

For the Garvan Sound route, the key rock to locate is the covered Blind Rock with 1.8 metres of water over it. It is situated approximately 800 metres to the northeast of a point on the mainland, and is to be left to the south passing through the sound. By keeping the Chimney Rock at Carrickaveol Head (approximately 4 miles east by southeast on the mainland coast) just open of the singular 70 metre high Stookaruddan (bold and loaf-shaped, 1.5 miles closer on the mainland coast) a vessel will pass approximately 400 metres to the north of the Blind Rock. This should represent a 117° line of bearing to track in.

When past Blind Rock and approaching Carnadreelagh Isle, or the low flat-topped Rossnabartan Isle comes due south, turn hard to the southeast for a very short leg to bring Stookaruddan onto a 115° bearing shutting Chimney Rock in behind it. This leads through the 600 metres wide Garvan Sound that exists between Carnadreelagh Isle and the 2.1 metre rock patch to the southwest of the cut. The least depth of the sound is 12.8 metres and once the Garvan Isles are abeam to port, make way towards Glengad Head. It should be noted that Slievebane Bay and Malin Harbour provide a separately covered anchorage immediately south of Garvan Sound.

The passage to Portkill is rocky with high and brooding cliffs and once past Stookaruddan a berth of 400 metres will keep a vessel clear of all dangers. The stacks add interest along the route but caves and arches are very few and far between.

Glengad Head is a bluff headland with a remarkable hill near its extremity. The area to the south of Glengad Head is locally known as The Rue where the coast progressively lowers in height for the final two and a half miles south to Culdaff Bay. All dangers will be cleared by staying 200 metres or more off the shoreline here.

The separately covered Culdaff Bay is passed next between Dunmore Head and Bunnagee Point. Keep at least three hundred metres off Bunnagee Point to clear Bo Rock that resides immediately northeast of the point. Next is the separately covered Tremone Bay three miles further southeast, between Rubonid Point and Ballymagaraghy Point. Finally, two miles further on, the separately covered Kinnagoe Bay is passed – keep offshore of Kinnagoe Head that extends out with Dungloon cliffs where ‘The Galleon’ sea stack may be seen. Likewise on the opposite side, or eastern side of the bay, ‘The Dutchman’ reef extends out 300 metres from the shore here. Other than that the coast is steep-to and free from danger with 20 metres of water a quarter of a mile off. A berth of 300 metres off the shore clears all dangers in this area.

Eastern Approach. Approaching from the east a vessel has two available options to approaching Portnocker. These are, north around the Tuns Bank, and enter via the Lough Foyle ‘North Channel’, or an alternate approach via a ‘South Channel’.

The most straightforward is the offshore approach where Inishowen Head provides the principal landmark. Backed by high hills the bold precipitous and considerably indented Inishowen Head terminates the Lough Foyle’s mountainous north shore. The abrupt precipice is free from dangers extending more than 300 metres offshore and it is well marked.

Two miles to the northeast of the head is the Lough Foyle Buoy, a safe water pillar buoy.

Lough Foyle Buoy - L Fl 10s position: 55° 15.322’N, 006° 52.616’W

Inishowen Lighthouse will also be clearly visible. It is situated half a mile southwest of Inishowen Head upon Dunagree Point.

Inishowen Lighthouse - Fl (2) WRG 10s2 8m 18/14M position: 55° 13.556’N, 006° 55.749’W

Once Inishowen Head is in sight get set up for entry on the Portkill Initial Fix.

The ‘South Channel’, locally known as the ‘back strand’, resides between the Tuns Bank and the Macgilligan shore. It has a least depth of 3.4 metres upon approach, is about 400 metres wide at its narrowest part and, although unmarked, it is straightforward. Utilising this channel avoids heading out to the Tuns buoy so that an inshore approaching vessel, from the separately covered of Portrush or the River Bann for instance, can save two or three miles of sailing entering Lough Foyle. But for boats visiting Portkill there is little or no difference and the route selection will largely be a function of making the best of the existing tides at the time of the planned arrival.

The ‘South Channel’ may be addressed by coming inshore and approaching along the coast at a distance off of about 600 metres. Half a mile before Magilligan, come closer inshore to a distance off of 400 metres, to make way through the final cut south of the Tuns Bank. Once Magilligan point is abeam you are safe to head out into ‘North Channel’ and then turn to starboard for Portkill. Please note if using the South Channel on an ebb tide be attentive to navigation as it sets strongly across the channel towards the unmarked southeast edge of Tuns Bank.

The main shipping channel resides between the Tuns Bank on the east and the Donegal’s Inishowen shore on the west. This is called the ‘North Channel’ and is deep, steep-to on both sides, well marked plus three quarters of a mile wide and it keeps the Tuns Bank to Port. This bank extends about 3 miles in a north-easterly direction from the Macgilligan shore. Its highest part is near the south edge, which is steep-to on the west side, and it runs nearly parallel to the opposite Inishowen shore. You can expect to see breakers on the bank upon approach to help make its location visible.

Follow the North Channel north-easterly direction for two miles to Inishowen Head where the Inishowen Lighthouse will be clearly visible all the way. Please note there is also a smaller disused lighthouse that is white with one black band situated approximately a mile east of Inishowen Lighthouse. This leg will take you past the separately covered locations of Greencastle, Silver Strand, Cornashamma Bay, White Bay and Portnocker. Round Inishowen Head and make for the Portkill Initial Fix.

Final Approach. The Portkill Initial fix is quarter of a mile north of Inishowen Head and is 800 metres out from the standing stone on the shore. The position sets up an approach between two off-lying rocky outcrops off the beach. Aligned on the grey standing stone, marked on Admiralty chart No. 2511, a bearing of 257°(T) for a distance of 500 metres from the initial fix will lead into the anchoring area through the rocky outcrops. These require eyeball navigation to feel your way in the final few metres into the small anchorage.

Find a location to anchor with a suitable depth that makes the best of the prevailing conditions. Holding is very good in sand. Land on the beach by dingy.

What are the tides here?

High Water Dover -0500
Today's Dover tides — High waters: 09:09, 21:36, Low waters: 03:55, 16:22 ^{From Tide Times}

Rise : 2.8-2.2m.

Direction of stream 1 mile north of Malin Head
Dover -0600 East going for 5 hours (ends -0100), max rate 4 kn.
Dover +0100 West going for 3 hours (ends =0400) , max rate 3 kn.
At other time the stream is slack.

Please note during the flood a useful eddy runs southeast inshore of a line from Dunmore Head to Glengad Head. Interesting tidal races set up quite unexpectedly at times along this coast when sailing off the shoreline.

What facilities are available?

Portkill is a seclude and remote bay with no facilities ashore save for an access road.

What emergency contacts are there?

Malin Head MRCC/CRS (Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre / Coastal Radio Station) VHF Channel 23 or 1677 kHz covers the west and northwest coasts of Ireland from Slyne Head to Inishowen Head. Donegal Bay VHF Ch 04, Clifden VHF Ch 26, Belmullet VHF Ch 83, Glen Head VHF Ch 24 provide relay stations. Coastguard Radio is always called on a working channel. Emergencies are worked on 16, 67 and working channel. Alternatively, or if ashore, phone 999 or 121 (free) and ask for ‘Marine Rescue’. Gardai (police), Fire and Rescue are also available on this number. Malin Head MRCC/CRS may be contacted directly on +353 77 70103

Other useful contacts in this area:
Londonderry Harbour Master: VHF Ch 16 and 14 ~ Call sign "Harbour Radio"
Phone: +44 28 71 861113; Mobile: +44 780 1032387

Any security concerns?

Never an issue known to have occurred to a vessel anchored in Portkill.

What navigational resources are available for this area?

British Admiralty 2811 ‘Sheep Haven to Lough Foyle including Inishtrahull’ scale of 37,500:1. Admiralty 2697 ‘Lough Swilly’ scale of 25,000:1 that includes Culdaff Bay at a scale of 10,000:1.

Imray chart C64 ‘Belfast Lough to Crinan and Islay’ and Chart C53 ‘Donegal Bay to Rathlin Island’ meet in this area. Discovery Ordinance Survey map No. 3 at a scale of 1:50,000 for inland details.

With thanks to:

Bill McCann, Londonderry Harbour Master.

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How can I get this offshore?

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What other useful information is available?

The latest monthly Dover and Dublin (North Wall) tides courtesy of the National Environmental Research Council. Printable monthly tides for Dublin, Dunmore, Cobh, Galway, Belfast are available from the ISA.

The national weather forecast, Met Éireann and BBC shipping forecasts, plus a very simplified Ulster tourist outlook. From an Atlantic perspective a 24 hour North Atlantic synoptic chart that you may ‘right click’ and save to your hard disk. Met Éireann’s Eastern Atlantic chart and the BBC’s surface area forecast plus visible satellite images for Ireland and Northeast Atlantic from Met Éireann. Wind observations, XC UK & Ireland, Windguru wind & wave reports, and Windfinder where you can determine a forecast time. Coastal radio stations (VHF Channel) Weather forecast at 0103 and thence every 3 hours updated every sixth. Dublin 83, Wicklow Head 87, Rosslare 23 and Mine Head 83. Radio broadcasts on RTE 1 (89.1FM) 0603, 1253, 1655 and 2355.

A free tidal range prediction application for windows, a simple tide monitor plus the rule of twelfths are available in inyourfootsteps.com shared ‘experience’.



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