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Swell today

Direction N, height 0.0 metres, period 0.0 seconds, significant wave height of 0.4 metres.

Haven position?

54° 40.310' N, 005° 32.340' W

Where is that position?

This is west-of-centre Chapel Bay where the anchoring position is marked on Admiralty Chart 1753.

What is the initial fix?

This is just under half a mile south of the anchoring location. It is set upon the 5 metre contour, approximately midway between the anchoring position and the Foreland Red Can Buoy Fl R 6s.

What is the story here?

Chapel Bay on Copeland Island, one of the Copeland Islands group, is located in the Irish Sea off the northeast coast of Ireland. The island group is situated upon the south side of the entrance to Belfast lough and Copeland Island is the largest island and closest to the mainland. Chapel Bay is upon the west and mainland facing side of this secluded island. It provides an anchorage in a spacious sandy bay.

The bay provides good protection from west through north to east and is moderately good from all other points save from the southeast. Access is straightforward in daylight at any stage of the tide although a great measure of tidal planning will be required to address Donaghadee Sound - the stretch of water between mainland and Copeland Island.

Please note any trip to the Copeland Islands will be challenging as the waters are shoal, encumbered with rocks and the channels between are swept by rapid tides. This is particularly true of Donaghadee Sound, through which the anchorage is accessed. Streams here achieve 4.5 knots in places and great care plus tidal planning is necessary in approach and departure. In thick weather the area should be avoided entirely.

Why visit here?

The Copeland Islands group are a cluster of three islands that are called respectively Copeland, Lighthouse and Mew islands. The group derive their name from ancient Norse kaupmann meaning merchant, and Kaupmannaeyjar meaning Merchants Isle. Over time this was anglicised to Copman and altered in usage to the present Copeland.

Copeland Island is the largest of the group and forms the eastern side of Donaghadee sound. It is nearly a mile long, one-third of a mile wide and is low in elevation - only rising to a modest 31 metres at its highest point. Although desolate in winter in summer it is a beautiful grassy and partially bracken covered island that invites a walker to explore.

The anchorage of Chapel Bay derives its name from the ruins of a church that can be found immediately inshore from the landing beach. Its adjacent burial-ground is very old with inscriptions on headstones dating back to at least 1742. Back then Copeland hosted a thriving community that took great pride in the island’s appearance and unique community culture. In the early part of the nineteenth century the island population was almost one hundred with a school that had 28 pupils. This was however its peak from which it gradually declined during the first half of the twentieth century. The last two families regretfully moved ashore in 1946 and finally the last islanders, Frederick and Aise Clegg, departed for the mainland in 1953. Just over a decade later they returned one final time to be buried in the island graveyard. Today the island’s seven neat farmhouses are weekend and holiday homes that are usually only visited during the summer.

Although the islands may be quiet and secluded this could not be said of their surrounding waters. Situated as they are in the fast running tides of the North Channel the island group have been responsible for many shipwrecks. For here the North Channel conflicts with tides swirling around the Lough plus those that wraps around the island group. The resultant ‘Ramharry Race’ that is Norse for ‘rough and strong’ entirely lives up to its name. Add to the island group channels that are beset with dangers, swept by their own rapid currents and a dangerous environment is created for vessels approaching Belfast Lough. A spectacular wreck was that of the Enterprise that went down close to the notorious Ramharry Rock, on the eastern side of Mew Island, in 1801.

This occurred before the new lighthouse was built on Mew Island, in 1815, which may have been a key contributing factor. Prior to that Lighthouse Island hosted the lighthouse and hence its name. This original structure dates back to 1711 and the ruined stump of the 16 metre stone tower remains to be seen on the island today. Because Lighthouse Island was the higher of the two outer islands it was perceived by the maritime engineers of the time to be the natural placement point for a lighthouse structure. However in practice, although the light was clearly visible, the low-lying Mew Island was totally overlooked. This caused so many wrecks that it had to be deactivated and moved out to Mew Island.

Amongst the wrecks was Enterprise, a slaver working the Atlantic triangle. Homeward-bound with her ill-gotten gains, by way of the coast of Guinea, the Caribbean and New England, it had a rich cargo and silver dollars’ worth over £40,000. The ship was completely wrecked and the entire cargo lay buried in the sea until 1833. Then a man who would achieve fame by invention Alexander Graham Bell, by means of an innovative diving apparatus, succeeded in recovering about 25,000 of the dollars, five brass guns, and other valuable property.

Today there is less drama in the islands and their modern day repute is derived largely from their wildlife. The group are internationally important site for breeding populations of Manx Shearwater, Eider Duck and Arctic Tern. They are also nationally important sites for breeding Mediterranean Gull, Common Gull and Eider. Other breeding colonies of note include Black Guillemot, Water Rail Lapwing, Snipe and Stock Dove. Birds of prey favour the islands when the breeding season is over. Hen Harrier, Sparrow hawk, Buzzard, Kestrel, Merlin and Peregrine Falcon are all seen regularly.

Copeland Island has the most diverse range of habitats of the three islands. It offers cliff shoreline, with maritime cliff vegetation, pockets of salt marsh and wet grassland with frequent areas of marsh. As such it makes it ideal for a wide range of birdlife and in particular it hosts an internationally important Arctic Tern colony, with some 550 pairs. The site now represents the largest colony for this species in Ireland. Significant numbers of Grey Seal and Common Seal can also be found upon the shorelines of the islands. They make use of the reef and off-shore islands and reefs as haul-outs plus pupping and mating sites.

Combining the unique island experience with very interesting navigation plus the very good sandy Chapel Bay anchorage, Copeland Island could be said to amount to a unique sailing experience.

How to get in?

Directions are provided for a combined eastern and northern coastal, southern coastal approach, plus a final location approach. If coastal guidance is not applicable, skip directly to the ‘for the final approach’.

FOR AN EASTERN AND NORTHERN COASTAL APPROACH

Vessels arriving from the east will find the Copeland Islands of moderate elevation and distinguished by a lighthouse on the westernmost Mew Island. Those approaching from the east and outside Copeland Islands should leave Mew Island well to Port.

Mew Island Lighthouse - Fl (4) 30s 37m 24M position: 54° 41.923’N, 005° 30.824’W

Please note the ‘Northern Race’ and ‘Ram Race’ that occur at various stages of the tide to the east of Mew and Copeland Islands may be highly uncomfortable in strong conditions and should be avoided.

Once around Mew Island and Lighthouse Island come into the north end of Donaghadee Sound. Make for a central position in the sound between the island and the mainland.

Do not be tempted to head directly for the westernmost point of the island in a bid to cut into Chapel Bay. A drying area extends a quarter of a mile southward from the islands westernmost point. This terminates at the continually exposed 1 metre high ‘Carn Point’. Foul ground then extends a further 200 metres southward from Carn Point to ‘Rid Rock’. Vessels approaching from the north, or indeed the adjacent Port Dandy, cannot cut into Chapel Bay. Rather it is necessary to drop south of the bay and round Rid Rock before approaching the bay from the south.

Therefore vessels approaching Donaghadee Sound from the north are best advised to take the shipping channel through the middle of the sound by aligning upon the Foreland Buoy. Only start to alter towards the Initial Fix when the south end of the island is due east. Chapel Bay will then gradually open on the port side to the north. From the Initial Fix the bay is half a mile directly north.


Those approaching Belfast Lough from the north will first see Blackhead lighthouse that marks the Lough’s northern extremity.

Blackhead Lighthouse - Fl 3s 45m 27M position: 54° 46.016’N, 005° 41.338’W

South of Black Head the entrance to the Lough opens 6.75 miles wide between the headland and Orlock Point on the south. Its navigable area is free of dangers with an average depth of 11 metres.

Between Black Head and Carrickfergus the shoreline presents itself as a vertical black basaltic rock cliff face with three lit jetties associated with Kilroot Power Station. The first is the Cloghan Jetty located to the south of the easily identifiable 90 metres high white limestone cliffs of White Head, a mile and a half inside Belfast Lough to the south-southwest. This jetty extends out from the shore for more than half a mile and is lit at the end Fl G 3s 2M. Beyond the pierhead a green buoy, QG. 0.5M, resides half a mile off the pier head.

The southern shore appears comparatively low and unremarkable. Groomsport’s church spire will be visible plus the radio mast of a disused Coastguard Station on Orlock Point makes for a useful mark.

Once across the mouth of Belfast Lough pass the South Briggs Red Can Buoy well to starboard as it marks a dangerous reef that extends from the shore.

South Briggs Red Can Buoy – Fl (2) R 10s position: 54° 41.182’N, 005° 35.732’W

Likewise the area north of Orlock Point should be avoided out to a distance of at least 250 metres to avoid off-lying dangers.

From South Briggs the run to the Initial Fix is two miles in a south-eastward direction as described above.


FOR A SOUTHERN COASTAL APPROACH

Vessels arriving from the south or east will find the Copeland Islands of moderate elevation and distinguished by a lighthouse on the westernmost Mew Island. The approach options are to either come up outside the Copelands group or through Donaghadee Sound that resides between the mainland and the Islands.

Those approaching outside Copeland Islands should leave Mew Island well to Port and come into the north end of Donaghadee Sound.

Mew Island Lighthouse - Fl (4) 30s 37m 24M position: 54° 41.923’N, 005° 30.824’W

Please note the ‘Northern Race’ and ‘Ram Race’ that occur at various stages of the tide to the east of Mew and Copeland Islands may be highly uncomfortable in strong conditions and should be avoided.

Donaghadee Sound is the normal route for leisure craft making along this coast when tidal streams are favourable. Although the sound is almost a mile wide, between Copeland Island and the mainland to the southwest, foul ground called the ‘Magic Rocks’ extend nearly half way from Copeland Island’s southwest side. Then Deputy Reef, marked by a red buoy, is situated nearly in the middle of the southern fairway. These contract the channel through the sound to a quarter of a mile in width. This however is well marked for vessels entering and exiting Belfast Lough by the buoyed shipping channel. The key southern entry buoys as follows:

Governor Red Can Buoy - Fl R 3s position: 54° 39.360’N, 005° 31.991’W

Deputy Green Can Buoy - Fl G 2s position: 54° 39.513’N, 005° 31.944’W

Foreland Red Can Buoy - Fl R 6s position: 54° 39.640’N, 005° 32.307’W

Donaghadee Sound streams achieve 4.5 knots in places so tidal planning is essential and great care should be taken during the approach. Pass between the Deputy and Governor buoys and from there to the Foreland Buoy. After this the passage to the Initial Fix is just under half a mile north and clear of dangers.

A useful set of routing waypoints for a southern approach to Belfast Lough are available in the route ’Bangor, Belfast Lough - Dublin on 12 hours of favourable tide – both ways’.


FOR THE FINAL APPROACH

From the Chapel Bay Initial Fix track north into the bay. Be cautious not to drift west over to the foul ground then extends a further 200 metres southward from ‘Carn Point’ where ‘Rid Rock’ resides.

Anchor in a depth to your preference in sand with good holding. Sandy beach landings are possible in Chapel Bay. The jetty should be avoided as this is for a tourist boat from Donaghadee.

What are the tides here?

Today's local tide estimates are based on High Water Belfast +0020
Today's Belfast tides — High waters: 01:11, 13:24, Low waters: 07:09, 19:27
Today's Dover tides — High waters: 01:04, 13:22, Low waters: 08:17, 20:33 (From Tide Times)
High Water Dover +0100, as Belfast get Dover tides
MHWS 3.2m MHWN 2.7m MLWN 0.9m MLWS 0.3m

Tidal planning for vessels approaching Belfast Lough is essential. Vessels approaching from the south will encounter tides that run hard in the sounds. Likewise vessels approaching from east, or outside the island group, will encounter races with overfalls as they close in upon the Copeland Island group. At the eastern tip of Mew Island the ‘Ram Race’ initiates and extends 1.5 miles south-by-southeast on the flood and up to 1.75 miles north-by-northwest on the ebb.

From Dover HW +0455 to -0115 (Belfast HW +0510 to -0100) the tide floods southeast. Donaghadee Sound’s spring streams can in places reach up to 4.5 knots in both directions making a favourable tide transit a prerequisite for most leisure craft. Streams largely follow the direction of the channel but it should be noted heavy tide rips in a big seaway may cause overfalls to occur across the southeast end of Donaghadee Sound. From the entrance of Strangford lough however, through to the inner passage, the stream is comparatively weak, not averaging more than 1.5 knots on springs.
Copeland Sound tides are not as strong but still attain rates of up to 2.5 knots with Spring tides. This is however not the preferred channel owing to the two challenging and unmarked rocky shoals called ‘Platters’ and ‘Ninaen Bushes’, the latter with less than a metre of cover situated out half a mile off from the north-east point of Copeland Island. Eddies are very strong elsewhere all around the islands group.

Outside the islands the tides turn about one hour later. On the south going flood a vast eddy forms to the south of Mew Island. This circles back upon itself in the five miles area between the entrance to Donaghadee Sound and Ballyferis Point. Hence the streams off Donaghadee Harbour are 1.5 kn rotary in a clockwise direction on the flood. However when this vast circular eddy of water courses around to collide with the flood tide to the south-southeast of Mew and the ill-famed Ram Race shows its true colours. Thus the area is at its worst after the recirculation on the second half of the flood circa HW Dover -0230 to +0015 or about local HW (HW Belfast -0215 to +0030 or about local HW). Likewise the north-northwest race occurs on the latter half of the ebb from HW Dover +0330 to +0630 (HW Belfast +0345 to +0615 or about local LW).

Northern approaches are less complicated however tidal stream remain very strong running up to 5 or 6 kn off salient points to the north of Belfast Lough.

What facilities are available?

There are no facilities available off this secluded island.

What emergency contacts are there?

Belfast Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre (MRCC). Operational Area: Northern Ireland/ Irish Republic Border, Lough Foyle to Northern/Irish Republic Border Carlingford Lough. Belfast Coastguard (MRSC) VHF Ch 16, liaises closely with IRCG. Emergencies are worked on 16, 67 and working channel.

Alternatively, or if ashore, phone 999 and 112 and ask for ‘Marine Rescue’. Police, Fire and Rescue are also available on this number. Belfast (MRSC) may be contacted directly on +44 2891 463 933. HM Coastguard's Marine Rescue Sub Centre and a RNLI Atlantic 85 Lifeboat are based in Bangor Marina.

Other useful contacts in this area:
Groomsport Harbour Master Channel 16, Working Channel 8
Phone Direct: +44 28 9127 8040 Mobile +44 7702587566
Belfast Harbour Radio on VHF Ch 12 or 16 or +44 2890 553504
Harbour Master Office +44 2890 553015
Bangor Marina Tel: +44 28 9145 3297,
VHF Channel 37/80/11 Call sign "Bangor Marina" (24 Hours)

Any security concerns?

Never an incident know to have happen to a vessel in Chapel Bay.

What navigational resources are available for this area?

British Admiralty 1753 ‘Belfast Lough and Approaches’, scale of 37,500:1, including ‘Donaghadee Sound’ scale of 15,000:1 and ‘Bangor Bay’ scale of 17,500:1. Imray chart C62 – ‘Irish Sea’ plus Discovery Ordinance Survey map 15 (Belfast - scale of 1:50 000) also cover this area.

With thanks to:

Michael Fitzsimons, Groomsport Harbour Master.

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