Sailing inyourfootsteps.com

10°C

Swell today

Direction SE, height 0.0 metres, period 9.9 seconds, significant wave height of 0.1 metres.

Haven position?

55° 14.735' N, 006° 22.055' W

Where is that position?

This is set in the middle of the entrance to the outer harbour.

What is the initial fix?

It is one nautical mile out from Ballintoy’ conspicuous 16 metre high white church tower, standing above the harbour, and 600 metres north of Sheep Island. A bearing of 212°(T) from the initial fix towards the church will lead in to the west of Sheep Island. Once Sheep Island’s northwest corner is 200 metres to port a vessel may turn for the final 900 metres to the harbour entrance; a bearing of approximately 235°(T).

What is the story here?

Ballintoy is a small harbour situated on the north coast of Ireland, immediately east of Ballintoy Point, at the western end of Sheep Island Sound and approximately five miles west of Ballycastle. It has a shallow harbour utilised by several open fishing boats. It offers the possibility to anchor in the outer harbour area or immediately outside the entrance where the black basalt stacks and islands afford some measure of shelter from the Atlantic.

The harbour provides an exposed anchorage with fair shelter in settled or offshore conditions. It is entirely open to anything with a northerly quadrant. Access requires attentive navigation as there are islands, stacks and covered rocks on either side of the entrance path.

Please note in northerly winds the Atlantic Ocean rolls directly into harbour with formidable force and a ground swell batters the harbour area. It is totally unsuitable from March to November when a heavy swell makes this section of the coast untenable except for a briefest of landings in auspicious circumstances. The direction and velocity of the tide should be the central feature of any navigation planning in this area.

Why visit here?

Ballintoy’s name is derived from Irish: ‘Baile an Tuaigh’ meaning ‘town of the north’ although another translation suggests it stands for 'the place of the axe'. The beautiful harbour and village are separated by a mile long narrow winding road travelling down Knocksaughey hill.

The harbour was originally constructed in the eighteenth century by a slippery character name 'Graceless' Stewart to enable low cost coal to be shipped to Dublin. In the late nineteenth century it subsequently developed a trade in sett stones that were used to pave streets. At peak production more than one hundred men were employed at ‘Brockie Quarry’ near Larry Bane hewing and shaping sett stones. A small rail track moved the processed stones and limestone to the quayside for transport to Irish cities such as Dublin, Wexford, Cork, Limerick and across to Scotland. Evidence of this industrial past can be seen in the lime kiln that still stands today in the harbour along with the limestone blocks from which the harbour is itself constructed. Indeed Ballintoy has shaped the district as its burnt lime was used in the construction of numerous stone cottage and rural halls in the district.

Ballintoy remains a working harbour for small open boat fishermen and a number of pleasure craft use the harbour. Although in recent years it has been somewhat upgraded Ballintoy is very far removed from its industrious past and is more a place in graceful repose. It is a simply beautiful harbour with a stunning panorama looking out to Sheep Island and across the sound to Rathlin Island with Scotland in the backdrop.

Sheep Island is a remarkable flat topped island. With steep cliffs on all sides it could more accurately described as a large sea stack. It derives its name from a time when sheep were taken out by boat and grazed on its high grassy slopes during the summer months. It was bought by the National Trust in 1967 and, after the island’s rats were exterminated, it was left to birds to colonize. This has been very successful and it has since become an important nesting site for Puffin and Cormorant. Landing is possible by dinghy on Sheep Island at a couple of points. A visit may require an exposed climb to get to the high grassy area. This should not be underestimated as the rock is loose and the slope steep depending upon the approach. It is advised that you take local advice if you plan a visit.

Ballintoy Parish Church situated on the hill above the harbour is an unusual building. The sixteen metre high square tapering tower has an unusual aspect that gives an impression of a Norman tower or even a Mediterranean building due to a coloured history. Originally this was the site of a castle and then an older church stood in this location before the current structure developed. The narrowed square tower looks odd because it originally supported a steeple. This was taken away in December of 1894 by a hurricane leaving the church with its 'unique' appearance.

What is particularly striking is ‘Bendhu’ the last house on the right of the winding road down to the harbour, overlooking the sandy cove. Named after Bendhu or ‘Bendoo’ a nearby headland that overlooks Boheeshane Bay it was created by the artist Newton Penprase. He started the house in 1936 and continued organically constructing rooms primarily around views letting his imagination and expression run free long after his retirement in 1953. The cubic outcome is a wonderful expression of one man’s creativity and imagination and though odd the architecture blends timelessly into its environment. It is now a listed part of the coast’s Architectural Heritage.

Ballintoy is also famous for the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge located on the coast is just outside the village. The bridge links the mainland to the tiny Carrick Island. It is thought salmon fishermen have been erecting bridges to the island for over 300 years. The site is now owned and maintained by the National Trust and an admission fee is charged for crossing the bridge. Now open all year round a bridge crossing is an exceptional experience. The swinging rope bridge spans 20 meters and it is 30 meters above the rocks below. The bridge attracts almost a quarter of a million visitors each year to test their nerve.

The coastal area around Ballintoy is of great geological interest with volcanic basalt and sedimentary limestone found here in close proximity. Of special interest is White Park Bay that resides immediately to the east of Ballintoy. White Park Bay which can be accessed by a short walk from the harbour is in geological terms known as a 'raised beach'. Historically the ocean would have washed into the raised curved cliff face and Ballintoy harbour would have been submerged. As the ice age came to a close the land mass gradually rose creating the sweeping curve of the existent bay. Several carbon dated Neolithic sites and arrow heads have been found by an observant walker who pass through this ancient sand dune system here rich in flora and fauna.

The superb blackness of the basalt that attracts geologists to Ballintoy also speak of treacherous waters here during the winter The area of rocks between White Park Bay and Ballintoy harbour, known locally as the Park End, pick up some of the biggest swell waves along the north coast. Add to these strong tidal currents and rips between the islands that break the waves and the basalt receive constant wave action with even the tallest stack getting washed by winter storms. Though utterly beautiful in the summer the area is equally as interesting a location to visit in the winter without a boat. For here a visitor can truly apprehend the power of an Atlantic storm as it pounds into the natural defences that protect Ballintoy harbour.

Situated in one of the most picturesque parts of North Antrim Ballintoy has it all. Sheep-speckled pastures, unusual buildings, corkscrew road, sea stacks, rocky islands, pools and a quaint historic harbour looking across the blue to Rathlin Island and the Scottish Isles; the scenery here is simply stunning. Furthermore the area around Ballintoy is exceptional for walking with unusual experiences such as White Park Bay and the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge residing close by.

Although Ballintoy may not be the best anchorage upon this coast, it is close to the completely protected Ballycastle, and in settled or offshore winds, a must-visit location for the coastal cruiser.

How to get in?

Directions are provided for eastern and western coastal approaches plus a final location approach. If coastal guidance is not applicable, skip directly to the ‘for the final approach'.

FOR A EASTERN COASTAL APPROACH
Approaching from the Irish Sea please use Ballycastle or Church Bay, Rathlin Island for further information on the approach and rounding of Fair Head. Once in western section of Rathlin Sound the approach is clear of dangers with the exception of Carrickmannanon off Kinbane Head, two and a half miles southeast of Sheep Island. This rock is visible as it nearly always breaks and dries to 0.3 of a metre.

Next is Sheep Island a highly distinctive precipitous basaltic rock island just over half a mile north of Larry Bane Head’s conspicuous white cliffs ashore. Although the Initial Fix is situated 600 metres north of Sheep Island and it is recommended that a vessel keeps at least 300 metres to the north of the island to avoid detached rocks on its northern and eastern sides.


FOR A WESTERN COASTAL APPROACH
The principal headland encountered on a western approach is Ramore Head to the south of the Skerries Islands where Portrush resides. Coastal cruisers will find ample water through Skerries Sound, between these small islands and the headland, making it a convenient approach to Portballintrae. Although tides may be disturbed on either side of the Skerries it sets fair through the Sound that is free from outlying island dangers. However in poor weather or visibility, without the benefit of an experienced local boatman aboard, it would be best to avoid the unnecessary narrow channel and approach Portrush from outside the Skerries.

Those taking the inshore route will find the Skerries reside one mile from the shore and are formed from a chain of low rocky islets. From the five metres high Black Rock, at the easternmost end, they extend for a mile and a half in a westerly direction. Great Skerrie is about 200 metres across, 25 metres in height whilst little Skerrie is 15 metres high. The smaller rocks here are a washed and in north-west gales the spray flies over them all. Carr rocks mark the western end of the Skerries group. Situated 400 metres northeast by north of Ramore head they are uncovered at half-tide and are always visible by the break upon them.

The ‘Storks Beacon’ provides an eastbound line-of-bearing of 083.5° that leads through the middle of entire Skerries Sound south of the island group. This is situated two and a half miles from Ramore Head on the eastern entrance to Skerries Sound. The Storks are marked by a red conical metal beacon, ball topmark, 11 metres in height.

It is the point-of-entry however that is the Sound’s narrowest point, between ‘Carr Rocks’ and ‘Ramore Head’ and this requires specific attention. Here the sound is 200 metres wide, although clear of danger with depths 14 metres of water through the middle, attention needs to be paid to two dangerous sunken rocks that need to be avoided.

The first is a reef on the south side ‘Reviggerly’ that is a shelving rock that extends 50 metres into the sound from the east part of Ramore Head. Then opposite, on the north side of the sound, are sunken rocks just less than 100 metres to the southwest of the 5 metre high Carr Rock. The latter sunken rocks are the particular concern as the bay’s east going tide sets strongly towards Ramore head, across the entrance of Skerrie sound and onto these covered rocks. The safest option, travelling either way, is to tend to the southern side of the sound where the reliably visible partially-exposed Reviggerly reef resides off the steep-to Ramore Head.

After this it is simply a matter of tracking along the ‘Storks Beacon’ eastbound line-of-bearing with plenty of water on each side. With the exception of the Stork Rocks, the area between The Skerries and the shore is free from danger. On closer approach the Stork Rocks will be found to be awash at high water and the sea breaks heavily in any swell here. The north side is steep-to with 13 metres and more depth and keeping 200 metres north clears all dangers. However the south and east side has foul ground that extends out 300 metres. Further south, between the foul ground and the shore, there is a clear channel with up to 11 metres of water for those who would prefer close costal cruising and there is plenty to be seen ashore.

Along the coast here for the first three-quarters of a mile from Portrush is a range of sand hills followed by ‘White Rocks Beach’ to the south of the Storks. Here the powerful dumping waves can be seen carving the costal limestone into caves and huge sea sculptures with interesting names such as the ‘elephant rock’ and the ‘lions’s claw’.

One mile to the west of Portballintrae, at the end of the limestone cliffs, stands the magnificent ruins of Dunluce castle. Perched on the summit of a rocky outcrop and overhanging the sea this prominent castle is approached by a narrow causeway over a stone bridge. Underneath the castle is a particularly beautiful cavern. From here it is mainly black trap rock cliffs heading east to the little cover Portballintrae that is covered separately.

After Portballintrae the coastal route leads through Bushmills Bay. Here the shoreline is broken by three miles of Bushfoot Strand’s sand hills leading to Runkerry Point, where a small slip exists below Runkerry House; make note of the Mile Stone an off-lying rock off Runkerry Point. Great Stookan, a high rocky cliff resides between Runkerry Point and the world famous Giants Causeway. Although appearing insignificant from sea it is also one of the most beautiful sections of the entire Northern Ireland coastline.
One mile east of the causeway is Benbane Head the northern extremity of this coast. The coast is steep here and remarkably bold in appearance with columnar basalt cliffs rising almost perpendicularly from the sea to a height of 120 metres. A formidable tide race exists off this headland and it is recommended that a vessel keeps at least two miles offshore of Benbane Head to avoid it.

Ballintoy Point is the next headland, a distance of approximately five miles from Benbane Head. The entire passage west of ‘Sheep Island’ to Benbane head presents a mainland coast composed of a rugged broken shore that is subject to heavy surf. The mainland’s predominant feature is of black basaltic cliffs alternating with limestone and inland hills rising to heights of 180 metres in places. There are some outlying rocks, but there are no hidden dangers beyond a quarter of a mile from the shoreline.


FOR THE FINAL APPROACH
Ballintoy is easily identified from the sea by a conspicuous white church tower, 16 metres in height, located on a hill above the harbour. It is best approached from the north and the Initial Fix is set one nautical mile out from the church, 600 metres north of Sheep Island.

Ballintoy harbour’s has a key rock to be observed upon entry called Rock-on-Stewart. It is a dangerous rock that has a 1.6 metres of cover LWS and it is situated approximately 700 metres to the west of Sheep Island and 1000 metres north-northeast of the church. It breaks continuously in rough condition and may also be seen to break in settled weather. There are further drying rocks between Rock-on-Stewart and the shore.

The best route into Ballintoy is to pass between Rock-on-Stewart and Sheep Island into the harbour keeping a distance of 200 metres to the west side of Sheep Island. Once the northwest point of Sheep Island has been passed to port it is safe to turn to starboard towards the harbour entrance. A bearing of 212° (T) from the initial fix towards the church will lead in between Rock-on-Stewart and Sheep Island. Then once Sheep Island’s northwest corner is 200 metres on the port side a vessel may turn on to a bearing of approximately 235°(T) for the final 900 metres to the harbour entrance.

Boats carrying a sizable draft will find the area immediately outside the harbour the best place to anchor. Although outside it is reasonably sheltered from the Atlantic by a host of black basalt stacks and islands.

If stopping temporarily in settled conditions the rock bound cut that forms the outer harbour could be used. Faced with a concrete quay this outer harbour area is 70 metres long by 40 metres wide and has a dredged depth of about 2.2 metres.

Shallower, drying vessels or landings may be made in the inner harbour where a minimum depth of 0.8 metres can be found alongside the quay west of the boathouse.

What are the tides here?

Today's local tide estimates are based on High Water Belfast -0352
Today's Belfast tides — High waters: 01:11, 13:24, Low waters: 07:09, 19:27
Today's Dover tides — High waters: 01:04, 13:22, Low waters: 08:17, 20:33 (From Tide Times)
Nearby Ballycastle is High Water Dover -0445 spring, -0200 neap.
Belfast -0450 spring, -0155 neap
Direction of stream along the near shore: Dover -0300W +0200E

MHWS 1.2m MHWN 0.9m MLWN 0.9m MLWS 0.3m

The tides in Rathlin Sound are very strong, have several eddies and are subject to great variations both in force and direction. Tides run from 6 knots at springs, to 4 knots at neaps causing strong eddies along the shores, with heavy overfalls off all the headlands. For those approaching from the south, close in off Torr Head the Ebb runs up to 9 knots during Spring tides.

Direction of stream between Inishowen Head and Benbane Head (approximates)
Dover -0530 east going; Dover +0030 west going, 2 knots Springs.

At the Skerries the ebb stream or west going stream sets fair through the anchorage and sound to the westward, attaining a velocity of 3 to 3.5 knots in the constricted passage between Ramore head and the Carr rocks. Eastbound vessels should make note that the flood stream sets from Ramore head towards Carr Rock. However it turns east in about mid channel in the sound when it sets fair. In heavy weather an unpleasant seaway will be found in the sound that is best avoided.

Off Benbane Head the rate is 2.5 knots except within a mile of the headland where the spring rate attains a speed of 3 knots. Great seas can build up off Benbane and off Bengore Head 1,000 metres to the east. A useful east running eddy may be availed of close inshore and to the west of Benbane Head. The eddy occurs during the second half of the west going stream and it begins at Dover +0330 and continues until it is overtaken by the main east going stream at Dover -0530.

The latest monthly Dover and Dublin (North Wall) tides courtesy of the National Environmental Research Council. Printable monthly tides for Dublin, Dunmore, Cobh, Galway, Belfast are available from the ISA.

The national weather forecast, Met Éireann and BBC shipping forecasts, plus a very simplified Ulster tourist outlook. From an Atlantic perspective a 24 hour North Atlantic synoptic chart that you may ‘right click’ and save to your hard disk. Met Éireann’s Eastern Atlantic chart and the BBC’s surface area forecast plus visible satellite images for Ireland and Northeast Atlantic from Met Éireann. Wind observations, XC UK & Ireland, Windguru wind & wave reports, and Windfinder where you can determine a forecast time. Coastal radio stations (VHF Channel) Weather forecast at 0103 and thence every 3 hours updated every sixth. Dublin 83, Wicklow Head 87, Rosslare 23 and Mine Head 83. Radio broadcasts on RTE 1 (89.1FM) 0603, 1253, 1655 and 2355.

A free tidal range prediction application for windows, a simple tide monitor plus the rule of twelfths are available in inyourfootsteps.com shared ‘experience’.

What facilities are available?

There are no supplies in Ballintoy harbour but there is a café close to harbour. The harbour has a car park, picnic area, access to coastal path. The village of Ballintoy is located about one kilometre from Ballintoy Harbour and has modest commercial and social facilities servicing a small population of little more than 150 including tourist accommodation, restaurants, several small shops, and two churches. It is located alongside the B15 coast road, 28 kilometres (17 miles) north-east of Coleraine, 8 kilometres (5 miles) west of Ballycastle and between it and Bushmills.

Nearby Ballycastle Marina offers a full service marina where most all yachting requirements can be catered for.

What emergency contacts are there?

Belfast Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre (MRCC). Operational Area: Northern Ireland/ Irish Republic Border, Lough Foyle to Northern/Irish Republic Border Carlingford Lough. Belfast Coastguard (MRSC) VHF Ch 16, liaises closely with IRCG. Emergencies are worked on 16, 67 and working channel.

Alternatively, or if ashore, phone 999 and 112 and ask for ‘Marine Rescue’. Police, Fire and Rescue are also available on this number. Belfast (MRSC) may be contacted directly on +44 2891 463 933. There is an Auxiliary rescue coastguard station at Ballycastle.

Other useful numbers in this area:
Local Coastguard: +4428 207 6226
HM: +4428 20768525; Mobile +447803 505084
Hospital +4420762666.
Ballycastle Marina Tel: +44282 076 8525; VHF 80
Harbour Authority Mobile: +447803 505084; E-mail: info@moyle-council.org

Any security concerns?

Never an issue known to have occurred to a boat on anchor in the Ballintoy.

What navigational resources are available for this area?

British Admiralty 2798‘Lough Foyle to Sanda Island including Rathlin Island’ and / or British Admiralty 2723 ‘Western Approaches to the North Channel’ scale of 200,000:1 large scale. 2494 ‘Ireland-North Coast, Plans on the North Coast of Ireland’ at a small scale of 37,500:1 including Portrush the Skerries and approaches.

Imray chart C64 ‘Belfast Lough to Crinan and Islay’ C53 ‘Donegal Bay to Rathlin Island’ plus Northern Ireland Ordinance Survey No. 5 at a scale of 1:50,000 for inland details.

With thanks to:

Terry Crawford, local boatman of many decades.

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